Southern Mozambique

Day 70 – Vilanculos, Monday 6th August – 0kms

I woke up at 6. After all, as night falls soon after 5:30 and we could not wander in the village at night, there was not much to do. Our camp was dead, the small bar was closed as there was no staff to be seen anywhere, with no WiFi or anything else to do, we read a bit and slept early.

It is not wise (for tourists) to walk around after dark, we were told by the manageress at the Baobab.

I read a bit ( I am quite hooked by the Shetlands series and reading my way through the whole 7 books from Anne Cleeves) and by 7am we had a look around to check if there would be some breakfast. All was quiet, no staff around, so we walked, once again via the beach, to the Baobab beach camp. There were people having breakfast, there was a long menu to choose from, free coffee on offer… Paradise! I took an omelette with bacon. It was huge! I could not finish!

We used their WiFi for some planning and finding a place to stay in our next destination. We had decided to leave the following day, as our camp was ghastly with really unfriendly staff who treated us like we were an inconvenience to them. But as all seemed to be so fully booked everywhere, we decided to secure a place before getting to Tofo. All accommodation there was fairly full too but we booked a more expensive than usual, to us, place.

After that we went for a walk into town. We went back to the Baobab to have a drink and early dinner before dark. We shared a very hot pizza. As we were finishing, a family sitting not far from us offered us some grilled fish. They had been off fishing and caught a 1.5 m fish weighting a good 38kgs. They could not eat it all! It was delicious!

After that, completely stuffed, we went back to our miserable camp, before dark, for another early night. This time, with power cuts, it was really not much else to do.

Day 71 – Tofo – Lobster Chalets – Tuesday 7th of August, 320kms

We woke up at 6 am and started packing. The weather was very foggy but we were ready to go before 8. We stopped for fuel, at a bank to get cash. The fog slowly lifted as we travelled south.

It was very hot and we stopped few times for fuel and to drink. The road was in good condition so we made good progress. The many police check points did not pay us any attention. We arrived at Tofo by early afternoon. Tofo is popular with South Africans for surfing and diving so tends to e very busy.

Finding the guesthouse was another problem. The sandy and very damaged track that the GPS wanted to take through was really too damaged for us. Eventually, after a bit of search and faff around, we arrived at the Lobster Chalets. Our chalet was great, big, clean, with a terrace which contained a small kitchen sink and fridge. It was very luxurious.

The bar restaurant was on a roof terrace with nice view over the ocean. The WiFi worked, the bar was a Honesty bar and we were close enough from town to get supplies. Amazing place.

Day 72 and 73 – Tofo, Lobster chalets – weds. 8th and Thursday 9th August, 0kms

From the restaurant, every morning ( eating a huge breakfast!) around 7:30 am, we could see whales playing in the ocean. It was amusing to see, an hour later, when they were gone, the Zodiac boats, full of tourists, going all over trying to look for the whales! We just had to sit early morning to check them out!

We explored the little town and had a couple of excellent lunches at a little shack.

We also found a bar, on Thursday, that served Caipirinhas! A real taste of Brazil! I hope to be able to buy the sugar cane liquor used for this drink, somewhere in South Africa, before we get back home!

Day 74 – near Chidenguele, Sunset Beach Lodge, Friday 8th August, 240kms

Day 75 – same location Saturday 9th August

Most places I investigated online seemed still fully booked for our dates. I found the sunset beach lodge online. They had small self catering chalets and camping ground.

So we left Tofo after a huge breakfast and rode through few miles of sandy trails, picked up the tarmac and then the main road, the EN1.

We arrived at the turn off from Chidengueme early afternoon. Then it was 6 kms of sandy track to the lodge.

Why is it that everywhere we go, we always end up riding few miles of sand to get to camp? I hate sand! Riding sand is hard! This one was usual with sections of deep fluffy sand that sent my front wheel all loose. I managed to keep control and made it to the lodge. The day was incredibly hot and by the time I wrestled my bike through the sand I was drenched!

The camping area was just deep sand. The chalets were 2600 Meticals a night, so we took the comfortable option! We are turning soft in old age!

The place looked deserted but as we took the path down the beach we came across a group of South Africans fishing.

Back at the lodge, a family with 2 kids were lounging by the pool and then having dinner. By dinner time, half an hour after we ordered dinner, a large group of Italians ( 10 or 12 of then ) turned up. I knew what would happen. Those organised tours usually pre order their food. While the cook prepared their food, we waited. 2 hours after our order went off, we finally had our dish, after the Italians got theirs.

A very long wait for a very disappointed dish or bland undercooked ( even some raw) chicken and bad rice. I did complain with my (non existent !) diplomatic skills! Not that the staff gave a crap about it. But I like to complain! I am French, I am good at that!

The next morning, as Alistair was not feeling too well, and our confidence on the Lodge’s cook skills was at an all time low, we decided to self cater. We had some left over bread from Tofo and some peanut butter. So that was breakfast with coffee.

Then Alistair took my bike and rode to the village. From the various little shops, he came back with some onions, a green pepper, a can of tuna, a can of beans and a can of chopped tomatoes. And some spicy powder. With all that I cooked a nice and full of flavours dish for lunch and dinner. The onions and peppers are incredibly sweet and full of taste, in this region.

I tried to do some planning, but without WiFi, it was difficult. As it was a big bank holiday in South Africa, we suspected that the border point would be very busy and with long queues on Sunday. I had booked a hotel in Nelspruit, South Africa, for Monday night, and we also had ordered tyres from a motorcycle shop, over there. The town is only 100kms from the border. We though it would be better to cross early Monday morning and avoid long queues. The best laid plan…..

Day 76 – Komatipoort ( South Africa) , Kruger View backpackers, Sunday 12th August, 370kms

We left the lodge early, at 8am, as we had a long way. As we made good progress, we decided, on the way, to just get to the border. The ride was not fast as it was busy with trucks hard to overtake. The road had only 2 lanes and constant incoming traffic. Despite this, we got around lunch time near Maputo, the capital city. We caught the ring road to get to the road going west to South Africa.

The road was not fully built. As one lane was cut, some young lads tried to stop us,saying there was a diversion. Alistair, being as usual very British and polite, stopped. As I saw trucks and car continuing, and being French and rude and grumpy, I waived the kids out of my way and continued. Whatever scam they ran I would be no part of it. An expensive looking saloon car went past and made us sign to follow it. As the road ended, we follow the car through sanding tracks, with the rest of the traffic. Eventually, we got on the right road, with nice tarmac. The driver signalled which way we should go. We thanked him by waving and got on our way. So we did not part with one single Metical! humbug!

Soon before the border, we stopped at a fuel station to use our last Meticals. Then we went to the border. Immediately, as we entered the compound, we were surrounded by a crowd of men who ran along or bikes and surrounded us as we parked the bikes. As you may suspect, with my sunny and charming temperament, i was a already shouting at them !

One guy, with a badge and a hat that looked kind of official, demanded our passports and that I stay with the bikes while Alistair had to follow him. I shouted at the crowd to disperse and leave us alone, in my most diplomatic style. The official looking guy took our passports and took Alistair to customs.

Alistair snatched the passports back and asked the customs official if he knew who the guy looking kind of official, was. The custom official shrugged, not knowing. Alistair stormed off and came back to the bikes with our passports. All scammers gone. We walked to immigration and had our passports stamped quickly, then went to custom. The custom guy did not know what to do with the Carnets but was happy to follow our instructions and stamp and sign them.

So we then rode to the South African border. Things were a little less hectic. We got our passports stamped in. I made clear we had our plane for the 19th of September, so needed 2 months visa. You see, after one spell in SA, they only give back a transit visa these days. It seems to be the latest policy to avoid people living in SA and doing the border cross to renew their visa every 3 months! So the policy now is, if you already had a 3 months visa, to only give you 7 days. We got 3 months without any problem. I worry too much sometimes.

Then we went to custom. They are not used to Carnets. This is when we spotted that Alistair Carnet had not been stamped correctly and in the right form, when exiting Mozambique. I usually check everything is correct with the Carnets. This is very important as we could be liable to massive import tax for our bikes, if our documents are not properly showing that the motorbikes left each country we visited. But this time I did not check Alistair’s carnet! So while I got my carnet filled for entry to south Africa, Alistair went back to the Mozambique side to correct the error. He had it done without any difficulty.

We were then stopped at the border zone exit for a quick search of or panniers and a chat with the bored customs guys.

We had , on the way, decided to stay the night at Komatipoort, the border town. It skirts Kruger National Park and had plenty of accommodation. I had spotted a backpacker place few days before, when we had WiFi. So we rode there. As usual, the GPS took us via the scenic gravel roads rather than the most direct tarmac road. This time I did not begrudge it, as it took us through a beautiful road and across a stunning little lake.

So, back in South Africa! We still have 5 weeks left to explore and there is plenty of that here! Can’t wait! But first, new tyres and some bike maintenance in the next town!

That’s all for now folks!

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Central Mozambique

Day 65 – Quelimane, Mozambique, Wednesday 1st August – 400kms

We woke up at 6am and left the Mulanje backpackers place soon before 8. We stopped at the petrol station to buy some more fuel, as well as get enough water and snacks for the day. We knew it would be a long day.

Then we rode to the border. We got there at 9am. Exiting Malawi was simple enough. We were also sent to the health centre, where they checked our yellow fever certificate. Strange that they checked it at exit but not when we came in! Mine was done on 2004 and I was told, back in the UK, that it was valid for 20 years or for life, can’t remember! The health worker at the Malawi border told me he did not care but that I could have problems on entry to Mozambique as it should be less than 10years! With that in mind, and the added stress, we left Malawi.

After changing our remaining Malawi Kwachas into Mozambique Meticals, ( about 12 dollars equivalent) without much hassle at all, we rode to the Mozambique border post. At the consulate, they told us that the visa was $75 at the border or 115$ at the consulate. But immigration at the border asked us for $50 only. First for 2 months but then for 30 days only! It took a good 2 hours to get all done.

It was not busy at all at the border, just many officers sitting around not doing much. While we waited for our passports to be processed, I spent a while, explaining in Portuguese to the custom officer, how to fill and stamps our Carnets! They obviously don’t see many of those! That done, we sat and ate some peanuts and stare back at the locals crossing through. No way to rush anything!

Then, an officer took Alistair into a small dark room, alone! For a long time! I got worried he was given the fearsome American style full body intimate search (latex gloves and all!) but they were just trying to work out how to take his finger prints and photo! It was faster with me! Then we went to a small office outside the main building, where a nice young lady was the health care officer. She took details of Alistair’s yellow fever vaccine batch number, by then I was rather nervous! She took a look at mine, wrote some numbers in a big book and asked us if she could take our temperature, as she mentioned something about Ebola! Apparently there was Ebola in DRC, but we went not near it. We both were judged fit and healthy enough to be allowed into Mozambique. Then it was time to buy insurance for our bikes. We were quote 880 Metical per bike ( about 14$) or, we could pay in dollars and it would be 10$ each! Go figure!

A good 2 hours later, we were let into Mozambique. The road was mainly roadworks and slow going for about 20kms, but then it was ok. All along the road, there were constant villages and houses, as well as many people walking and we passed many markets along villages, but in general we maintained good speed. For once, we saw no farm animals roaming free!

The locals stared at us as if we were aliens from another planet. Unlike Malawi or Zambia, no one waved, not even the kids!

We stopped at a town where supposedly there is an ATM machine to get cash. We just stopped at the fuel station and emptied the 5 litres jerrycan on my bike. We had enough local currency to buy some more, so we put 6 litres on Alistair’s bike. With that done, we had enough to make it to our destination, so we did not bother looking for the bank.

We were very keen to get to Quelimane before it got dark. I did not fancy getting cash from a street ATM machine after dark! Night falls very early as we are still in the same time zone that Cape Town and Namibia. In Namibia, day light was at 8am, on the east coast it is 5am. It starts getting dark soon after 5pm. With few stops on the road, we got to Quelimane soon after 4pm.

Without internet access for several days, we relied solely on the very unreliable Lonely Planet to find accommodation. The first budget hotel listed there, with its bucket showers and dilapidated description, did not appeal much. We selected the hotel slightly more expensive at about 50$ a night including breakfast. It was a good choice. Probably the best in town! The place was busy with the zillions of Aid workers we have seen since Zambia, driving around in sparky new giant Toyotas with air-con, staying in the best hotels and eating at the best places. Hotel Flamingo, where we decided to stay 2 nights, was full of them, going around with ipads and laptops, looking important with their iPhones, logos and conferences and meetings held by the pool side and next to the bar! No owner most of them are so fat! I hope that a bit of those billions in Aid actually reach the people who truly need it!

After sorting out the accommodation, we ran to the nearest cash point to get some local currency. We had to pay the hotel in cash. Then we finally got a shower, got went down to the bar by the swimming pool for a beer and some dinner!

Day 66 – Quelimane, Hotel Flamingo – Thursday 2d August 2018

We decided to stay for a day to have a rest and get ready for the long ride south.

We found the local supermarket, with few things we could buy. Each aisle had a member of staff to ensure that all clients were watched and none could steal! We got water and some more cash from the bank.

Later on we went for a short walk, everyone was staring at us ( even on the ride to town, no one waved us, only stared). Few people came to us asking for money… The town was dilapidated and the buildings blackened from mould and dirt.

The climate is more tropical with a lot of humidity. For the 1st time in this trip, we had and used the air-con.

Day 67 – near Gorongosa – Kapulana Hotel – Friday 3rd August – 450kms

From my research online I knew there would be very little accommodation on the only road south. So I had booked a room by email with the 1st hotel on the way south. As it was rather far, we decided to leave early. We were packed and riding soon before 8am. With plenty of time to get there we stopped for fuel. We had few snacks and lots of water.

What we had not prepared for was the absolutely awful state of the road. The first 200kms were fine, then soon before Caia and crossing one of the very few bridges over the Zambezi river, it started to go wrong. Some potholes, then many, then the size of craters.

We had few short sections of good road where we could speed up, but mainly, it was bad to the extreme. As the day progressed but we did not too much, but we kept going. By 3pm, our shadows were getting longer. By 4pm, we were hoping to be closer. As we bumped, swerved and fell into those giants craters I started getting more and more worried. The road was covered in sand, with the long shadows from the trees and the sun going very low, it was very hard to actually see the holes and judge the depth until we were nearly inside. If we had to press on after dark, it would be near impossible with our pathetic lights on the bikes! Eventually, as it got dark, I saw the sign for the hotel. We just about made it by the skin of our teeth, covered in dust and sand and exhausted. It had been a very long difficult ride.

Through this region we saw true poverty, women and children walking bare feet, no sign of schools, people living in mud or even wood huts, a small kid that I glanced at as I passed, with a distended stomach, a clear sign of malnutrition… this region seemed forgotten by everyone. It is obvious that very few tourists venture around here, as everyone stared at us as if were aliens.

Considering the state of the road we had to revise our original plan. Our destination, Vilanculo, was a good 500km further south. With the road as it was, we could not make it in one day. Scouring the Internet we found 2 places on the way. One was about 80$ for a room, the other one was slightly cheaper and was midway.

Day 68 – Muxungue, Hotel Canindica, Saturday 4th August – 240kms

We left around 9am. The road was still horrid for a good 75kms. It took us 2 hours to ride that distance.

Then we got to the good road at last. We made finally good progress and got to our stop for the night early afternoon.

The region seemed less poor, with many schools and neat villages, still some mud huts and wood huts, but more brick buildings, markets, villages and people wearing shoes, many moped and bicycles around.

Day 69 – Vilanculo, Sunday 5th of August, 260kms

Despite what we were told by the staff at the hotel, the road was not too bad. Some sections were damaged and turned into a dirt track, but it was easy to maintain speed.

We arrived at our destination early afternoon. The first place we had in mind, the Baobab beach camp, was full.

We then rode to the Beach village backpackers camp. It was empty. Not a single guest. We took a hut with ensuite bathroom, as rustic as you can expect, although the price tag was not, at 45$. But then, it is a popular town with holiday makers with prices to match.

The hut was missing top bedsheet, towels and even toilet paper. The floor was dirty and covered with dirt and dead flies. I asked the guy at reception to remedy this and a woman came who could really not be bothered! The dead flies remained! I did some laundry while Alistair went into town to find a shop, as we needed water at least. Not sure if the place would provide dinner or any sort of food. The two women who worked there were busy sunbathing by the pool, giving me dirty looks because I had dared to ask for towels and bed linen! The guy in charge of the bar and reception was sleeping near the bar. Some places are so welcoming!

We walked along the beach at 4:30 to get some sort of dinner at the Baobab beach camp, few 100s metre down. The place was full, lively, with staff serving drinks and dinner, receptionist arranging excursions and WiFi working! It was such a contrast with our camp!

We walked back to our camp before it got dark. The lady managing the Baobab camp came to talk to s ad gave us the WiFi password, welcoming us. She knew well that our accommodation had terrible reputation, so told us we could use the Baobab facilities.

Souther Malawi

Day 58 – Senga Bay, Cool Runnings – Wednesday 25th July

As previous, more photos can be found here due to unreliable WiFi.

We were planning to leave, but the place was so pleasant and relaxing that we decided to stay for a 4th night. We spent the day reading and lounging around the various chairs, sun beds and sofas.

Day 59 – Cape Maclear, Funky Cichlid (south shore of lake Malawi) – Thursday 26th July – 176kms

We finally managed to extract ourselves, reluctantly, from Cool Runnings, and rode to Cape Maclear, the south shore of the lake. The weather was slowly getting warmer and less cloudy. On the day we left, it was clear sky but not too hot. Perfect weather to ride. We rode through the sandy streets of the village, back to the main road. We planned to spend 3 nights in the south shore and get to Blantyre, the second biggest town in Malawi, on Sunday only. The plan was to get to the Mozambique consulate early Monday morning for our visas.

The backpacker place we selected had great reviews, but they only had room for two nights. It is now the high season, with plenty of backpackers from Europe. Cape Maclear is easier to reach by public transports than Senga Bay, I guess.

There were lots of backpackers and long time travellers, most of them in their early 20s. ( I am always a bit bemused by very young long time travellers. When I was in my 20s I had to save a lot just to be able to afford a bicycle from Decathlon to commute to my minimum wage job! How do they finance their trips? )

Anyway, the backpacker place was funky with music, a nice bar area to sit and lounge and cheap drinks. A G&T for a pound will attract the backpackers!

We settled in a room, it was simple, with cement floor and bare walls but relatively clean with a mosquito net above the bed. The shared bathrooms were functional with kind of hot water from solar panels. The water was pumped from the lake. We explored the village which was much more touristic than in Senga Bay, with lots of shops selling craft and bright coloured clothes and bags.

In Malawi, free WiFi is only provided in high end hotels. If lucky there may be a hotspot you can catch with the phone and buy a voucher to get access. I bought 2MB.

Day 60 – Cape Maclear, Funky Cichlid – Friday 27th July

We booked a room in another lodge for Saturday night, and then decided to go kayaking in the lake. Had to be done. It was nice to go kayaking again, we used to do this often at weekends, when we lived in Rio.

As we came back, soaked, we decided to go for a swim too. The weather was splendid and the water warm at last!

It’s only later that Alistair mentioned some disease from snails. He went digging his emails and found the document the nurse at the surgery sent him. There is significant risk of Bilharzia in all bodies of fresh water, including in lake Malawi. Oh well, considering the showers and all taps were with water from the lake, swimming or not in the lake would make no difference. We asked the funky Cichlid’s manager whether there was any risk. She said they recommended all guests to take XYZ treatment as prevention. Well, lucky we asked, as they may tell everyone, but not one of their staff told us! And there was certainly no notice, board or any sign of this!

Bilharzia can be fairly dangerous and fatal if untreated. Although the risk of catching it is very small, it is best just to take the treatment as prevention, especially as it is a tablet to take 6 to 8 weeks later and cost about 2 pounds. So we will buy that in a pharmacy in Blantyre.

Easier than asking for it to our GP, back in London, who would refuse to prescribe it. The tests are apparently rather costly, so all the people living by the shore of the lake ( Including and especially all those Europeans and Americans volunteers or workers) take a tablet every 2 months.

We did not do much after all that. So we read some books again. This week is a bit of a holiday for us, before we tackle Mozambique.

My research online showed various addresses for the consulate in Blantyre. Alistair tried to phone the embassy in Lilongwe, but all the phones numbers we found online or on guide books were incorrect. Emails were also incorrect, for both the embassy in Lilongwe and the consulate in Blantyre. The phones for the consulate were also incorrect! Including from a Malawi magazine aiming at tourist info!

If we cannot secure the visas in Blantyre we will just turn up at the border, not much else we can do, considering how elusive Mozambique’s embassy and consulate are!

Finding an affordable place to stay in Blantyre took also some time. The fact, that, as usual, google and booking.com seem to place hotels and guest houses in random locations, making them look like they are in town instead of 30 kms out of town, does not help. Any promising place we found we had to cross reference the address using other sites, and find out it was actually totally out of town!

Day 61 – Cape Maclear, Eco lodge – Saturday 28th July, 500 m ride.

We packed. The Funky Cichlid was fully booked for the weekend so we moved 500 meters down the road to the Eco Lodge . The room with shared bathrooms was cheaper than the Funky Cichlid, at 20$ instead of 30, but the communal space less comfortable and the bar small and poky. We realised that lots of people from the Eco Lodge were actually lounging at the Funky Cichlid’s large open bar and lounge area, as we recognised lots of people having their breakfast at the EcoLodge ! Also at the EcoLodge, the cheaper rooms were away and in a more poky place with lots of junk lying around. I guess at that price we could not complain!

Once unpacked and changed, like everybody else, we walked along the beach back to the Funky Cichlid to lounge and have a beer. We could not get signal from the hotspot ( I needed to do some planning and find accommodation in Blantyre) at the EcoLodge, another reason to spend as little time as possible there.

Later on,we had dinner there as well, as their menu was far superior to the EcoLodge.

Day 62 – Blantyre – Sunday 29th July – 275kms

We left the lake and rode to get to the second biggest town in Malawi. The road, for a good 60kms was just constant roadworks with deviations through sandy tracks. It was slow going with constant people walking, cycling around, goats and sheeps roaming free. This has been a constant for a while. There are constantly people along the road. A village after another. Nowhere to stop for a quick pee or a quiet rest.

For once, at a police checkpoint, we were stopped by the police. After the usual questions ( where do you come from today, where are you going) the guy asked Alistair for money to buy a drink! So disappointing as so far it never happened. Alistair told the guy we needed to get cash from a bank as we had no cash with us. He let us go with a smile.

In Blantyre, we rode to the street where the guesthouse was. In booking.com it had great reviews. The place was as to be expected for 35$ a night including breakfast! A dump! We decided not put a review as we had nothing positive to say about the places. Alistair spent most of the nights there hunting massive mosquitoes as the mosquito net above our bed was full of holes and was so small it was probably for an infant bed only!

Day 63 – Blantyre – Monday 30th July – 0kms

We woke up at 6am. It is daylight soon after 5am and dark soon after 5pm. With regular power cuts and no WiFi or any sort of entertainment, we went to sleep early.

Soon after breakfast (microwaved fried egg, cornflakes with horrid milk, an ok sausage and some fried potatoes) we walked to the town centre. The place, according to the guesthouse owner, who described in his description that it was close to the Mozambique consulate, was in the town centre. We walked the 3kms to the address we had for it, only to find out it had moved two years ago to another location. It was even further away, near a Roman Catholic Church. After a lot of asking and a lot of walking under a blazing sun, we finally found it. The lady at the desk told us the visa would cost us 115$ each, but we could get it for cheaper at the border! So we walked back into the town centre and looked for an Internet cafe, as Alistair had to print some docs for our limited companies accounts.

After that, we tried to find a cafe to sit and have a drink. The only place we found was going into the local luxury hotel. The town centre was only banks and insurance companies building and nothing much for food or drinks! We then walked back to our grimy guesthouse. My steps App, which still seems to work offline on my phone, showed we walked 15.5kms that day!

With another power cut and not much to do, we went to sleep early again.

During our expedition in town, we managed to get the tablets to treat Bilharzia, so you will be glad to know that in 6 to 8 weeks, if we develop horrid worms in our body, that should kill them and we will not die a painful death!

Day 64 – Likhubula village, near Mulanje – Tuesday 31st July – 100kms

We left early and took the scenic route as we had plenty of time. We bought fuel and filled the jerrycan as well, as once we cross the border into Mozambique, if we cannot find an ATM machine, it may be hard to buy fuel, until we get to Quelimane, over 360 from the border. Very few places accept credit card payment!

The ride was beautiful as we rode across vast tea plantations through stunning rolling hills. The villages around seemed more tidy and prosperous generally. As usual, there were constant people along the road, houses, one village after another, groups of young lads hanging around not doing much.

We took a trail off the main road and found (eventually!)a pleasant backpacker place. There were louts everywhere vying for business, mainly as guides to go hiking into Mulanje mountain. We had no intention to go hiking, but they were persistent.

Once settled into our very clean and comfortable room we went for a little walk. Back at the backpacker place, the locals just stared at us from the road, as we sat by the windows. Even the kids! Some lads would try get our attention ( more guides?).

We had dinner at the guesthouse and chatted with a deutsche family on holiday in Malawi. The wife had done a year as junior doctor in Malawi few years earlier. After that we went for an early night as we had to leave very early the next day, in order to cross the border and make it to Qualimane.