Lusaka ( Zambia)

Days 45 to 50 – Lusaka ( Friday 13th to Tuesday 17th July)

Friday morning Alistair rode to Best of Bike to check out their tyres. They only had cheap bad quality Chinese tyres and even the staff there advised him to keep the Mitas.

In the afternoon we walked to the local shopping mall. We were staying in an AirBnB and had a small kitchen so we wanted to cook some vegs. The little studio flat was located in the back garden of a large mansion, behind a tall metal gate. All ten area was like that. Big plots with big one story buildings and large gardens. All had security but nothing too bad. It was obviously the nice area of Lusaka as the Parliament was a short walk away along with high commissioners mansions and embassies around.

The city however is built for cars with no pavement for walkers. So you either walk on the road, with the cars or across the front gardens and pixels of dirt, rocks, and rubble that constitute the sides of the road, as well as very wide deep open drains. A health and safety officer would have a fit !

On Saturday morning, as Alistair was doing some maintenance on the bikes, he cleaned the oil gauge glass on my bike. The glass went inside the engine! Big “oops” moment. He contacted Best of Bike and pushed my bike to their showroom, a good 5 kms away. Then te bike had to be trucked 35kms away to the workshop.

As they closed at lunchtime and reopened only on Monday, there was not much to do but wait.

I spoke with the Airbnb owner and we were able to stay until Monday. After that they had a guest.

We investigated few local hotels. The problem with that was that both and Google Map locate these in completely random places and often miles from where they really are. This happened to us a lot also in Russia and Central Asia. You think your hotel is in the town centre, as showing in the map, and end up miels out of town in the middle of nowhere. That is if you can it in the first place!

Anyhow, after a lot f walking around on Sunday, Alistair located a guesthouse that had room for us, about a mile away.

So on Monday, he took by roll bag there I has bike. Then he came back and picked up more stuff ( tank bag, backpack, small roll bag).then he came back and picked me up.

The hotel was rather run down but it was fairly cheap at 40 USD per night. Including breakfast.

After that we contacted the mechanic dealing with my bike. They confirmed it would be back ready and back in town for Tuesday morning. We just had to wait.

So the next day we finally picked up my bike. I had to ride pillion on the CRF, which is not great as it has no passenger’s footpegs.

The mechanic had to reuse the crankshaft cover gasket and glued the gauge window. It should last until we are back in the UK. Then I will need to order few parts from the US. Then we rode to the local Honda dealer, it they had no tyres. So I guess we will have to carry on and hope our back tyres can last until we are back in South Africa.

We then walked to the mall to get some supplies for few days camping in South Luangwa National Park. I took also the opportunity to investigate and plan our itinerary across Malawi and Mozambique and agree the details with Alistair. We decided to avoid Zimbabwe, as there are presidential elections at the end of July, and things could turn hectic there.

We are ready to hit the road tomorrow !


Into Zambia

Day 41 – Katima Mulilo ( Namibia ) – Sunday 8th July – 330kms

It was time to leave Shametu lodge. The main building was like a Harry Potter movie with 3 large owls living inside, on the beams. A mother and 2 youngsters. At night, the mum would go hunting while the 2 young ones would constantly screech, asking for food, while looking at us below, turning their heard in funny ways, as only owls can do.

Unfortunately we do not carry the sort of cameras that could take long shots in the dark. They were very cute. The owners told us it was good to have them there, despite the mess they would cause on the floor. They eat mice, which means less mice so less snakes in the area!

We left early. The road across the Caprivi Strip was long straight and boring. We did not see any wildlife, despite crossing a national park. The vegetation was kind of semi tropical with lots of bushes, trees and tall grass so it would be hard to spot anything.

Still, when we stopped half way, in the middle of nowhere, for a quick pee, I put Alistair on lions watch! I was told there were many lions and elephants there, so don’t laugh!

The ride was tiring as we had constant headwind.

Eventually, we arrived at Katima Mulilo and found the guest house we had selected online. We even had a booking this time!

We were the only guests. Although the next day for breakfast, there were two men there, who sounded like they spoke Russian or some Slavic language.

The guesthouse owner spoke with us of our plan to cross into Zambia. He warned us that the road, on the Zambian side, was in very bad state and suggested to ride south and go via Botswana to Livingstone. In term of distance, it would be about the same, but we were not keen to cross two borders on the same day and deal with all the taxes, fees and other stuff to pay twice and in two other currencies.

Eventually, after looking the map we decided to stick to our initial plan.

We had dinner in the guesthouse (it was only us. It was a set menu, beef, lots of rice, beans and some thick carrot soup that was to be used as sauce for the rice. Then we went to our chalet. The guesthouse had several little chalets, small but nice. They even had functioning WiFi! Yay!

As usual i felt a bit nervous about the border crossing, not knowing what to expect!

Day 42 – 220kms – Livingstone, Zambia – Monday 9th of July

After breakfast, which was included, we left Happy Forest guesthouse and went to buy fuel. Then we rode to the border.

Leaving Namibia was fairly fast. No touts in the compound. We got our passport stamped, then custom signed out our carnet for the bikes. Then we rode to the Zambian side.

All the offices were in the same building. We parked the bikes, surrounded by touts trying to convince us to change money, but i had done research and we went first to the bank in the compound. I changed all our remaining Namibian rands into Zambian Kwachas (ZK). Meanwhile, Alistair got some cash from the ATM machine.

Then we went to the offices. We had to pay 50$ each ( in dollars) for our single entry visa.

Then we were sent to buy our insurance for the bikes (about 45 $ each, but we paid in ZK). Then we moved to the carbon tax office for about 7 $ each. Then we were directed to the road tax and toll window to pay 10$ in dollars each. By then we had forked a lot of money! The staff were friendly and smiley. Makes a big difference compared with border crossing in Russia or Central Asia!

After that we were told we could go… only to be stopped just before the exit, to pay some additional local tax (3 dollars in ZK).

After that we were really allowed to leave.

The first 40kms were fine with fine tarmac. Then things went bad, but not as bad as we expected. For a long section the potholes had been filed with a mix of stones and sand. After that we had massive potholes. They were very large and very deep. With the bikes we managed to slalom and avoid the worse.

Eventually we made it to Livingstone and found the guesthouse we had booked the day before.

It was simple and the building rundown, in a fairly good location near to the town centre and supermarket, in a sandy gravelly road.

We decided to stay only two nights. We had been before to Victoria falls years ago, and done all the touristic stuff that all tourists do: the bungee jump off the bridge, the white water rafting, the 3 days canoeing down the Zambezi river, the helicopter ride over the falls…. We were not keen on doing anything like that again!

We had a look in town and had dinner near the supermarket.

Day 43 – Livingstone, Tuesday 10th of May – 0 kms

We went in search of an ATM that would accept MasterCard. Not an easy task, but eventually found it.

Every time we go travelling, we try to open a bank account with a bank that would not charge for withdrawing money abroad. Every trip we change, as this free scheme never seems to last.

This time is no exception. Alistair got a new account and got the debit card, but it is MasterCard instead of visa. In Zambia they don’t seem to like much MasterCard! We eventually, after visiting many local banks in the Main Street, found one that would accept our card. Of course we can also use our debits Visa cards but our banks both charge a lot for the pleasure.

In the afternoon I lazed around the courtyard and read a book. The place was ok, but our shower gave us an electric shock when touching the taps. If we were dry it was ok, but once I stepped into the shower and got wet, jeez! Nasty. I had not had a shower giving electric shocks since Bolivia!

We did some research to find accommodation in Lusaka. We usually avoid capital cities, but we need tyres! No way round it and we can only find them in Lusaka!

After going through all the terrible and expensive backpackers places, alistair found a nice AirBnB flat. It even had secured parking for the bikes. So we booked it.

Day 44 – Mazabuka – 370kms – weds 11th July

We left Livingstone early as we had a long ride. We were not aiming to get to Lusaka on the same day, as it is a long way. We decided to stop at the last big town before the capital city. It was still a long and very tiring ride.

We had constant headwind which is very tiring. Our bikes have no fairing so we get it full on.

We finally got to our destination for the night. The cheap guesthouse we had found in iOverlander was interesting.

The room we visited was a dump, and the horrendous bathroom had a massive plastic tub in the middle, full of water, near the shower. When I asked if there was no water, the lady showing us round mumbled something. I opened a tap in the sink, no water. I then asked if they had WiFi, expecting a no.

The woman looked puzzled. I added, thinking she had very little English: “you know WiFi, for Internet”.

She looked at me and said: “what is it, a dish?”. Hmmm….

Seeing the state of the bedroom we decided to inspect the other choices in town. After a bit of a run around ( the second place we looked at was fully booked!) we eventually found a nice clean guesthouse.

After a long day ride with lots of wind we were rather tired. We ate at the restaurant attached to the guesthouse. Choice was chicken, pork or beef. We took chicken! It was good.

Day 45 – Lusaka- 135kms – Thursday 12th July

We were not in a rush, but somehow, we were told breakfast was at 7:30, so woke up early. We left soon after 9.

The road, for about 70kms, was in terrible condition, and as before, we went into slaloms to avoid massive potholes. The road was busy with many trucks. There were also lots of trucks broken down by the side of the road. The weather was cloudy but not too cold.

We then arrive in town around midday. The traffic was going nowhere as all the roads end up in Lusaka and there is no ring roads or anyway to avoid the town centre. So even massive trucks get sucks into the centre. It was very slow going with minibus drivers and taxis all over the place as well as street vendors walking on the roads, between cars.

We wanted to stop at Best of Bikes as we would be riding through that road but did not find it. They don’t have a proper address. It is in Cairo road, the main road in Lusaka, where all the traffic end up driving through. In the end, we stopped at a petrol station and alistair went on foot try to find the place, but it was not where google map said it was! So we decided to ride to the Airbnb flat. That also took a while. I just wanted to get out of the heavy traffic, as it was rather stressful.

The Airbnb place was off the main road, through a dirt road with a big tall metal gate. Perfect for our bikes.

After getting changed we walked to the local supermarket. By then it was mid afternoon and we needed some food. We got enough for a snack and dinner. We decided that Alistair would ride the next day to Best of Bikes and check their tyres. If they are good quality I may also change my rear tyre. My Shinko tyre could still go on for a while. For Alistair, his Mitas rear tyre is over and has to be replaced.

The flat has a washing machine so we decided to do a big load with almost all our clothes.

We will stay in Lusaka until Sunday. I have to do some planning for the next few days of travel across eastern Zambia and our visit to South Luangwa National Park. Long distances with little fuel and campsites. And Alistair needs to do a bit of maintenance on the bikes.

That’s all for now!

Namibia: Toward the Caprivi strip

Due to poor WiFi connections, all photos can be viewed HERE.

( my posts for this trip are public, so no need for a FB account or to be connected to me!)

Day 35 – Monday 2d July – Grootfontein

The previous day, Alistair found a motorcycle / quad bikes workshop in town, but it was closed ( as it was Sunday).

So in the morning, after eating our B&B’s massive breakfast ( cereals, boerwor sausage, bacon, toasts, 2 eggs) we walk there. The town is pleasant enough, clean with wide streets and avenues, and low rise buildings.

After a chat with the business owner, Johan, who invites us to do the oil change in his premises, we fetch the bikes.

Alistair talks mechanic stuff with the owner. He is worried about his clutch, as it slips a bit.

Usually, we always put specific motorcycle engine oil on our bikes. Sounds logical. But often, in our trips it has been very difficult to fine that.

Johan has motorcycle oil, but he uses multi grade car oil in all his bikes, including his shiny BMW 1200 adventure. He says car oil is good quality, as long as we use a good brand. It is also much cheaper and easier to find. So it’s good to know, as we may not be so lucky, next time we need to change the oil!

After 5,000 kms, the oil from our bikes is black with dirt. We are told the fuel here is probably more “dirty” than in Europe and we should change it more often. Although our bikes manuals say we should change the oil every 10,000 miles, Johan tells we should do it much more often. Cheaper to change oil than something in the engine!

After that, we do some shopping. Alistair gets himself a hoody, as it is so cold at the moment, and we get some food for the next leg of our trip. Our staple food while camping is peanut butter and bread for breakfast, with coffee, and tins of curried mix vegs, tin of baked beans, bags of instant noodles, salted peanuts and biscuits, for dinner and snacks. All of this is easy to transport in a roll bag strapped at the back of my bike.

When we are riding we don’t usually bother with lunch. Dried nuts like peanuts are found everywhere and are filling.

In the evening we have dinner at the B&B’s restaurant and watch some football game with a glass of red wine! As you can see, we are having a hard life!

Day 36 and 37 – Tuesday 3rd July / weds 4th July – Kaisosi river lodge campsite – 280kms

The night is freezing cold and we have added all the extra blankets to our quilt. There is never any heating in houses here, from what we have seen.

We leave Grootfontein around 10am. We don’t have too far to go, and it is all tarmac. The only problem is the cold. It is always sunny and big blue sky, but, this morning in particular, it is freezing. I put all my layers on and even like that I suffer with the cold.

Eventually, by early afternoon, we arrive at Rundu. On the way we pass many traditional villages, with round huts and a round wood fence made of standing sticks side by side. There are lots of cows, donkeys and goats grazing by the side of the road.

By mid day, as we pass all those traditional villages, kids, still in their school uniform, get all excited to see our bikes and wave or run toward us. To start with, I wave back, but I worry that some kids could get too excited and run too close to the bikes, causing an accident. So I decide not to wave and ignore then instead.

In Central Asia, some idiots bikers started the trend of doing a High Five to kids, while riding. As a result, groups of kids now run practically in front of the bikes, even when riding fast. That made me very nervous over there.

After a stop for fuel, we follow the gps to the lodge. The way is via yet more deep sand for a bit of a mile. At some point I start digging my back wheel in deep sand, but I eventually manage to get off.

The grounds of the lodge are very pleasant. As usual for lodges, our campsite has its own small shower/ toilet block. The assistant shows us a site that has a concrete table and benches, which makes a big difference for us. After pitching the tent, we go for a wander.

They have the usual facilities, a curio shop with carved things and stuff to sell, a bar, a restaurant, a large terrace over the river, chalets for the high paying guests, overlooking also the river, and Avery large room with 2 big TVs. So we can watch the football.

The night is very cold, even sleeping with layers. Our sleeping bags are goose down and usually very warm. We bought them in Buenos Aires, back in 2007, during our motorcycle year around South America. My bike had been stolen and with it the camping gear. We replaced the sleeping mats and sleeping bags in Argentina. But even the goose down is not enough to keep us warm! We are told it is snowing in the Cape, and the freezing wind blowing from there!

The next day we laze around and get to know our neighbours in the campsite next to us. Three couples from South Africa on big 4×4 cars with roof tents.

Day 38 – Shametu lodge ( near Divundu) Thursday 5th July – 230kms

We pack up very early. The night was still freezing cold.

We stop at the local supermarket for some supplies to last the 3 days we plan to spend in Shametu. Lodges are usually in the middle of nowhere. They don’t have a shop. Lodge’s guests are in full board, and campers usually bring everything with them in their massive cars and trailers. South Africans, often. They travel in style! Those trailers have a full integrated kitchen and i suspect fridge as well!

At the car park of the supermarket, as we get ready to go, a woman and an old guy come to tell us to watch for a white car. They warn us they might try to follow us. As usual there are lots of people hanging around, or sitting in their cars. We thank the couple and go.

I keep an eye on my mirrors but can’t see anyone following.

The road follow the river Kovango, which is the border between Angola and Namibia. We pass many traditional villages, built with wooden huts and thatched roofs, with a round fence around them. As usual there are lots of cows and donkeys and goats roaming freely around.

We finally arrive at Divundu by early afternoon. We buy fuel and follow the GPS to the lodge. We see lots of tourists in big 4×4 with the usual tent in the roof set up. The place is busy. It is close to the border with Botswana and the only way to get to Zambia.

We find the turn off to the lodge. Once again, a mile of deep sand. I make a mistake and quickly drop the bike! I really don’t enjoy riding in deep sand. Sometimes I get it and skip over it using speed, and sometimes I just can’t do it! It is as much skill as confidence. It is a very big leap of faith, to stand on the footpegs and open the throttle and accelerate over a long section of sand.

The lodge is lovely with great grounds. Our campsite is shaded and enormous. It and has a large kitchen area, with a big worktop and a big aluminium kitchen sink.

Then another building is the toilet and shower room. The place is dark inside, but fine.

I ask the manager if we could get a couple of chairs or some benches to sit, as we have nothing. She kindly get some staff to bring us a couple of camping chairs.

In the evening we cook our usual tin of vegs with a bag of noodles and spend the evening lounging I te lodge buildings.

Day 39 and 40 and – Shametu lodge – sat / Sunday 6th and 7th July – 0kms

We book a river cruise for the afternoon. We see hippos and crocs and lots of birds.

We also see the Pupa falls. They are more like rapids than waterfalls.

I take the opportunity to make a big wash, including my motorcycle suit. The zips are getting very stiff because of the sand and dust stuck there. I give them a good brushing to remove all the dirt, until the zips work fine again. The weather is still fairly cool and surprisingly cloudy. We have not had any clouds since we left South Africa!

With some sort of WiFi working occasionally, I do some research for the next leg of our trip. I found a couple of blogs detailing the border crossing between Zambia and Namibia. There is an ATM machine on the Zambian side, so we don’t need to use money changer touts. There is also a bank, apparently.

I also look at the itinerary across Zambia, where distance between fuel stations might be a problem, through the Great East Road.

I also investigate further Mozambique. Outside of the north, which is dangerous, the country is quiet. Coming from Malawi we should be ok. Instead of riding straight through Mozambique to get to Zimbabwe, I am looking at exploring a bit Mozambique. We will see when we get close to the border.

That’s all for now!

Northern Namibia


Day 29 – Uis – Tuesday 26th June – 240 kms



From our chat with Yamaha yesterday, we realised that the mud from the salt road was extremely corrosive. 

To be fair, the 1st time we crossed it, it was dry, and looked like tarmac. We did not think much of it. So on the way back from Yamaha, We stopped at a car wash facility to give a rinse to my bike , as it was covered in salty mud. 

My electrics took  a hit though, I found out later !

As we leave Swakopmund (at last!) the digital display, which shows my speed, mileage , clock etc… is blank. When we stop for fuel, before leaving town, at first the bike won’t start. Strange. Eventually I catch up with Alistair. 

Once we hit the little D1930 shortcut to Uis, we stop few miles later. The road is badly corrugated and sandy. 

Alistair leaves ahead, and I can’t start my bike. I make a mental note never to jet-wash my bike again. Ever! 

The last small wash, where I directed the lad to avoid the controls and remove the salt just from the lower section of the bike only, still seems to have played havoc with the electrics. After 5 minutes, I finally get a response when I press the start button. Still, I am worried. 

60kms from Uis we stop again and the problem repeats. I get it going eventually and hope it is just water and the humidity causing this. 

We arrive early afternoon at Uis, and after refuel, we get to the Cactus Cafe and campsite. 

The facilities are amazing. Each campsite has its own shaded plot, with individual toilet/ shower, as well as a sink, Braai and tables ad chairs. 



Once we get the tent up, Alistair put WD40 around my controls and electrics. Leaving the bike drying in the sun helps. I still have nothing on the digital display. This is very annoying. But at least the bike seems to start when I am on neutral only. 

We revise our itinerary. We have wasted 10 days on and off in Swakopmund. and the gravel road I intended via Palmwag to Epupa falls is the main tourist trail. We decide to ride straight north instead, to Ruacana falls. I intended to get there via lots of detours. Going straight there will save us few days. Also, we don’t fancy busy gravel roads and breathing dust and sand raised by the constant traffic. It is exhausting. 

Day 30 – Kamanjab – 240kms – weds 27th June

After packing up, we have breakfast at the Cactus Cafe, attached to the campsite. They have nice pancakes. The staff is friendly, it is definitely a nice place for a night if you need. 

We ride straight north, through yet more bad gravel roads. We don’t see any wildlife. Just cars. We stop in a small town for fuel. Lots of touts around, trying to sell us tat we don’t need. 

By early afternoon we arrive at Kamanjab. There is no other spot on my map until Ruacana falls, over 300kms away. After stopping at a fuel station/ coffee/ shop we try to find accommodation. The GpS charger is dead from water and humidity, badly corroded. So we cannot use it to find a campsite.

Alistair is told about a B&B few hundred metres away. He walks there. They want about 100 USD! How can accommodation be so bloody expensive in Nambia? It never ceases to amaze me. Even camping costs a good 15 to 25 dollars per person, in average! And they won’t drop the price, even if the place is deserted. Surely, if you have a business, you would offer a discount to get customers over during low season! 


The owner of the cafe recommends her campsite and cabins, a mile out of town. It is half the price and we have a nice chalet for it. 

We cook a tin of vegs with instant noodles for dinner. 

Day 31 – Thursday 28th June – Ruacana, ‘okapita ‘ campsite – 300kms

After breakfast of toasted bread and cheese, as well as banana with yogurt, we are ready for a long ride. 

We go back to town for fuel. We fill the 5l fuel jerrycan as well, as the next fuel station is about 320kms away. Too far to make it with our fuel tanks alone.

Then we hit the road. All sweet nice tarmac, with hardly any traffic. 

About midday, we stop on a rest area to have a rest. Then we see a motorbike passing going south. I wave. It is a large bike with panniers and top box. We have not met any bikers since the unlikely meeting with Jordan in Swakopmund, and Clark in Springbok. 

The biker sees us and do a u turn. We meet Bruno, riding a huge new Africa Twin. 

We speak bike stuff for a while. He mentions he has a campsite near Ruacana falls, and to stop there. We can have a luxury tent for the price of camping. Nice! He mentioned that some time ago he had a Deutsche  couple on two bikes like Alistair ( CRF250). It can only be Leonie and her husband. We met them in Wales last year. I check and he confirms. What are the chances? There are so few people over-landing by motorbike in Africa, and yet we either seem to follow on their steps, or bump into them! 

So we keep riding, and a couple of hours later we reach the T junction, beyond, Angola. We find Bruno’s campsite, up a long very deep twisty sand track. Not fun on two wheels. We have a reception committee, with wet towels offered to clean our hands and a glass of apple juice. All very friendly and nice. 

We settle in the tented camp, which, as it’s name suggests, already contains  Avery large tent, with a really double bed, and a nice shaded vestibule. We are the only guests so the centre of attention of all the staff. After a beer we are asked if we want the set menu for dinner. As they keep asking we settle for the set menu, it is huge, enough to feed an army. 

Then we are invited to watch them singing and dancing. 

After a long day on the bikes, we go to bed early. The night is very cold. Very cold! 

Day 32 – Etosha gate – 460kms – Friday 29th June

We leave camp early and ride to Ruacana falls. Before, we waste some time, due to the stupid GPS, trying to get us through non existent tracks to the fuel station. After the fuel stop is sorted, we ride to the falls. They are at the border with Angola and we need to actually get through the Namibian post  border ( without stamping anything, they wave us through!). Unfortunately, this is the dry season and the falls are dry! But it is a beautiful ride there anyway. 

After that, we get back on the road. It is all tarmac but the stretch of road riding East is very busy with lots of towns and villages. The area is very green and there is a lot of water with plenty of shallow lakes and flooded land as well as a long river or canal.

There are also plenty of donkeys, goats and cows grazing by the side of the road! After crashing into a charging cow in Kyrgyzstan, I am cautious! 

Initially, I was thinking to find a camp on the way, but we find nothing obvious, and in the end, we decide to make it to Onguma camp, which is near the East entrance of Etosha National Park. We cannot get into the park with our motorbikes, but we can organise a drive inside from the campsite, at reasonable price. 

So we push on with the bikes, for most of the day and arrive at the gate of Onguma lodge (just next to Etosha National Park gates) and campsite rather late. It is nearly 6 pm and night falls early. The guard asks us if we have reservations! We don’t. The camp is full. 

We are on a bit of a pickle as the nearest camp is about 100km away! We cannot ride at night with the bikes, it would be too dangerous. The guard phone someone, and after some wait, he lets us in and we camp next to the gate. There is a small cement block with a  toilet, a sink, and a cold shower, which are designed for the door guard, but we can use them. It will do for the night. We have no water left but we can drink from the tap. We have very little food left too.

We manage to cook a packet of vegetarian chilli with some instant noodles. Spicy. 

After that, with nothing much to do and the night being cold, it is an early night. 

We have arranged, with the guard, to get into an early morning drive to Etosha, for about 50 / 52 USD per person. We have to pay in cash the driver. We also pay the guard in cash for the night camping. I don’t think the campsite will see any of that! But this is Africa, and we were in a bit of a trouble, so we are grateful we found a place for the night. 

With such a long ride we drink lots of water and dissolve a rehydration tablet. The consequences are predictable. 

Day 33- Onguma campsite – Saturday 30th June – 3 kms

I wake up around 3:30am…. the night is bitterly cold. I can hear lions roaring not too far. I need to go the toilet! I won’t be able to hold my bladder until daylight. Alistair laughs because I am scared of lions, but I don’t know where they are. We are, after all, camping in a private game reserve. They have lions. And the official campsite, I found out later, is fenced and we are not allowed to walk out! 

Anyhow, after careful exit from the tent and a watch around ( it is full moon and it’s like having a giant spotlight above the tent!) I manage my little expedition safely.

We are up at 5am to be ready for the drive into the park. It is absolutely freezing. I put all my layers on as well as my waterproof insert jacket. 

We were told the car would pick us up at 6am. 

The car actually comes into Onguma at 7, then takes forever to pick up 2 other tourists, who are taking their time having breakfast! Our breakfast was a cup of coffee, and the share of half a stale bread roll with peanut butter! 

Finally by 7:30 we get on the car. By then we are frozen! The diver hand us over a thick poncho, fleece inside and waterproof outside. We need it, as the car is open on all sides to take photos. 

We pay the guard for our night camping and get going. 

We spend all morning driving with a guide around the National Park of Etosha. We see plenty: lots of springbok, impalas, kudus and other deers, giraffes, many elephants, ostriches, zebras, a black rhino, and what i really wanted to see, a lion! A magnificent lion! 


Later on, we ask the driver to stop at the park official shop, as we can buy some food there and we cannot get there with the bikes. 

We pay the driver in cash for our drive. We are left with very little cash! 

At our return, there are some spots available in the campsite, so we move there early afternoon. We have a nice spot with our own toilet, shower room, sink, kitchen area etc… really nice. 

As it is finally very hot, I wash some clothes as my riding top is not smelling its best! 

We then have a nice hot shower and some late lunch from the bar ( just toasted cheese and tomato sandwich ) and two nice cold beers! 

Once all the chores are done, we go to the swimming pool and lie by the pool. It has been a very tiring day. 

Day 34 – Grootfontein – Sunday 1st July – 170 kms

I sleep like a log, with my thermal shirt and wool socks. The night, as usual, is very cold. We emerge around 7:30. We are not in a rush. 

Our next destination is only 170kms away. We will stay there 2 nights to do some research on the next leg of our trip, do an oil change and get some provisions. 

We leave the campsite around 9:30 after a coffee and some bread with peanut butter. Then we ride. 

We get to Grootfontein rather early. The backpacker place that we had in mind is empty. No one around. After all , it is Sunday. 

We eventually find another place and get settled. Everything is closed but there is a kind of motorcycle shop ( more like quad bikes stuff ) where Alistair thinks he could find motorcycle oil. We can investigate on Monday.

Twat Head and the Yah-Yah girls

Day 22 – Tuesday 19th June – Swakopmund 0km

We pick up the bikes at the workshop later that day. All seems good and we pack up in the evening, ready to leave early the next day.

Day 23 – weds. 20th June – on the road and back to Swakop.

The morning is incredibly foggy. It is after the case, after all it is winter here. We decide to leave at 9am. We aim to get to Palmwag, 430 kms away, so it will be a long day, up the skeleton coast mainly.

I can barely see through the visor of my helmet. It is very cold. By the time we get to Henties Bay, 70kms later, along the salt road, I am shaking because of the freezing weather.

Riding is hard as visibility is extremely poor through the visor, while at the same time I fear that if I go too slow, I may end up being smashed by a car from behind. We stop for fuel and tea, after buying fuel in Henties Bay. We decide to leave the muddy salt road that runs north and, instead, pick up a gravel road going inland, as it will be much warmer, once we get away from the sea.

After another 65kms we stop for water and to stretch. We are finally clear from the fog and it is warm.

As Alistair walks around the bikes and check our oil levels, he notices a pool of oil on the rim of him front wheel. His trousers are covered in oil too. The brand new fork seals are a spectacular failure. So much oil is pouring out that, surely, there cannot be any oil left in the forks. We have no choice but go back to Swakopmund and straight to the Yamaha workshop.

We turn back. We are gutted. I take the lead and ride fast. As we come closer to the coast, we can see the layer of fog still hanging far away in front of us, along the coast. The weather turns colder and colder until we hit the fog again. We barely slow down despite the poor visibility. It is all straight anyway!

We ride to Yamaha and have a chat with the guys there.

After that we go back to the Skeleton Sea backpacker place and get a room again. Shame, our previous room was big and airy, this one is on the ground floor and colder and humid. Nothing seems to dry ever. We take all the luggage off the Honda and ride to town to drop the bike to the workshop. We ride back 2 up on mine.

The shop will order genuine Honda parts from Cape Town. They fitted after market brand originally, although no after market can be that bad. We suspect either the seals were the wrong ones or they fitted them wrongly. Either way, they have to put it right.

Day 24 – Thursday 21st June – Swakop

We walk back to Yamaha. They confirm the parts will arrive on Monday. So we just have to wait.

We load on vegetables at the supermarket and cook a big chicken and vegs curry to last few days. Our diet lately has been petty poor, no vegetables. Only pastries and carbs.

Day 25 – Friday 22d June

Day 26 – Saturday 23rd June

Day 27 – Sunday 24th June

Day 28 – Monday 25th June

We are waiting, with not much to do. We do some washing, I read few books ( I loaded few Anne Cleeves murder mysteries on my iPad ) we watch too many repeats of Top Gear and too much football on TV. The weather is very cold, especially when the eagerly wind in blowing. Sometimes, mid afternoon, if it is sunny and not windy, for about an hour, we can get warm.

The backpacker place is busy as it is very cheap.

We come across a young couple riding two up on a Yamaha DR650. Jordan (from Oz) and Malina, who joined him two weeks ago, from Germany. Jordan rode from the UK. I tell him that we met an American, riding a BMW, in Springbok. He ask me “was that Clark?”.

Indeed it was! It is such a small world. There are very few people riding around Africa at the moment! Funny how we still manage to bump into each other! Jordan and Clark met somewhere in Sudan!

He also followed on Clark with regard to Etosha, and stayed in Onguma private game reserve. The campsite is cheap and they provide affordable drives into Etosha. So I take a mental note of the game reserve, and we will aim for it, once we are in the area.

The backpacker place is full of people coming and going. We get to know the few who are hanging around a bit longer. Jordan and Malina eventually leave, once Jordan has fixed few things on his bike.

Twat ahead and The Yah-yah girls turn up. A day after us, and it just seems like they will be there forever as they don’t seem capable of taking any decisions.

At first, I thought there was a repeat of the comedy The Windsors on TV, and that we were hearing the parody of princesses Eugenia and Bea. I turn my head, and I see two girls of about 20, talking with exactly the same ultra posh accent than the TV serie. ( if you have not seen this program, make sure you do, it is very funny!).

Initially, I thought they were having a laugh, but no, they really talked exactly like princess Bea and Eugenie, in the parody of the Windsors. They also seem to have the same single neurone to share between the 2 of them, from what I gather with their constant inane laugh and comments. Every comment they make seems HI-LA-RIOUS to them. They are constantly laughing and giggling loudly. All. The. Time.

Alistair nickname them the Yah-yah girls, based ( for non English readers) on the very posh way some people say yes, but sounds like yaaaaaahhhh.

They hook up with Twat Head. Again, nicknamed by Alistair.

Twat head is a 25 year old lad from New York. Difficult not to know he is from New York as he keeps saying it. He has a car, so he is very attractive to the other backpackers ( including the Yah-yah girls) without car. He is groomed and buffed to an inch of his life, like a cast out of Sex and the City. Maybe it’s a New York thing?

Twat head is loud. Very loud. In the communal living/ dining room and the kitchen, next door, you can only hear him. He loves the sound of his voice. He holds court in the communal TV / dining room , with The Yah-Yah girls, as well as two other girls, who were more quiet and left after few days.

As you may guess, they are irritating. There is no escape from them, and even putting the TV louder, they don’t get the hint!

We try to find peace in our room, but Internet only works in the communal room and our room is very cold. So everyone tends to gather in the large communal room.

Some other characters we meet are very interesting though. Like an 18 year old lad from Oz, who seems to be travelling around the world, working here and there to funds his way. A pleasant intelligent chap. He disappears some afternoons to skateboard into town.

On Monday 25th, we finally pick up the bike and we are get ready to go.

We are happy to leave behind Twat Head and the Yah-Yah girls!

Erindi and back

Day 17 – Friday 15th June – Brandberg White Lady Lodge – 250kms

We leave the backpacker place and ride north toward the Skeleton last for about 70kms. Then, after refuelling and stopping for brunch at the cafe near the fuel station, we turn east inland, toward Uis. The road is badly corrugated.

By the time we get to Uis it is already lunch time and we need a break. We buy more fuel and stop at the Cactus Cafe and campsite for some tea and pancakes!

It is then back on the road. Our destination is in the Brandberg nature reserve, the Brandberg White Lady lodge and campsite.

Apparently, David Attenborough spent time there while filming one of his most recent series. The campsite is not fenced. So far no campsite has been fenced and wild animals are free to roam. So we tackle a good 40 kms to get there through a final sandy track.

It often happens that desert elephants and lions are walking across the campsite. A sign at reception says so. And the staff at the lodge warns us to have a fire at night and not walk around after dark.

So we duly order some wood, then set camp. This is our first hurdle. The bushes and low grass around have thorns that catch on the shoes and get everywhere. We are paranoid about any getting in the tent or under the tent, as we have inflatable mattresses. One puncture and it would be a very miserable night! I had that problem in Mongolia and I don’t want a repeat.

After clearing under the tent I put my sheepskin and gel seat under my mattress.

After heating a can of baked beans and having some dinner, we decide to get our fire going. We are certainly hapless at this. The wood is hard as rock and even using part of my lonely planet guide ( very good use of a lonely planet! ) and pouring some petrol, the fire is too hard to catch fire. A bit concerned about the lions, who killed 40 goats and a donkey few days before, only 20kms from camp, I look around for help.

I can see another set of campers, with big 4x4s and all the modern comfort that South Africans seem to bring with them when camping ( everything including the kitchen sink! ). I walk over to them and explain our predicament. They are very kind about this and give me some fire starter.

As I walk back to camp with my precious load, a group of people is passing bye. By now, it is pitch dark and I cannot really see. They are walking in complete darkness, without light, and not bothered by the lions. 3 young ladies from the group stop to ask if I am ok. I explain my stupid problem ( I can’t make the fire!) and they follow me and start the fire for us. To be fair, with fire starter, it is very easy. That thing seems to burn forever, long enough that our wood finally catches fire!

The girls then leave and the group stops at a large organised tour camp ( with large truck and 2 or 3 staff in hand!) to sing a Capella. Beautiful voices, raising in the dark.

With no chairs, table or anywhere to sit, we stand around our little fire. The sky is amazing. As my friend Naila said, in the desert the night skyfeel is close enough that you can touch the stars. With the moon only a thin crescent, it is spectacular.

It is then an early night.

Day 18 – Saturday 16th June – Brandberg White Lady Lodge

We get up early and are at reception at 8am. We have booked an elephant drive. With two other tourists we get on one of the Safari cars in search of elephants. Considering how big they are, they are very elusive. The ride is usually 3 hours, but it takes our guide a good 3 1/2 hours to find a family of about 16 elephants. But when we finally get to see them, it is great. Desert elephants are the same species than savannah elephants but smaller due to their very harsh environment.

After many photos we get back to the lodge. We relax in the afternoon by the pool, beer in hand, and get some toasted sandwiches for late lunch.

After last night problem starting the fire, we ask the staff if they can provide some fire starter for tonight with the wood. They don’t have any, but the guys setting the donkeys on fire ( you remember, that is the fire to heat water for the showers’ blocks!) get our fire going. It is easy when you know where the cardboard and little branches are stored!

So with a fire going, we know we can survive another night!

I take time to thank again the guys who gave me fire starter last night. They are now back to camp. One of them was actually competing in some motocross competition near-bye ( his bike broke down! ).

We get some instant noodle bag in the little pot, over our fuel stove. The night sky once again go on a great display. Last night singers are at it again but with more campers and organised tours tonight, they have more work. Once again, the mix of this beautiful night with such a spectacular sky, combined with the voices of this Choir, sometime mixing gospel songs, is amazing. I am loving Namibia!

Day 19 – Sunday 17th June – Erindi private game reserve – 280kms

The following morning we pack camp after a quick coffe and some peanuts butter with bread.

It takes a while to pack as we get the tweezers out to remove those horrid thorns from our shoes, our tyres and everything they got into. Some are so large they could cause a puncture!

We are finally on the way. Our 1st stop, 40 kms away is Uis again. We buy fuel and stop at the Cactus Cafe for 2d breakfast! Another tea with their great cinnamon pancakes while Alistair prefers an omelette!

Then we are off again. We stop at the closest town to Erindi: Amaruru. After buying more fuel we set the gps coordinates of Erindi private game park campsite : camp Elephant. Erindi is the biggest private game reserve in Namibia.

My road map shows nothing! To start with, the gps calculate about 70kms from Amaruru. We set on small tracks. Somehow the stupid gps decides to take us through some detours for whatever reason ( don’t get me started on artificial intelligence – the cheer uselessness and stupidity of a gps is breathtaking!) … we end up doing a total of 104 kms!

By the time we get at the entrance, I am rather tired. The entrance gate remind me of Jurassic Park. It is huge.

And then you have the warning board: “ enter at your own risk”; “ do not stop”, “ do not leave your vehicle”, “do not step out of your car”, “open top cars are banned”…. but somehow the armed guard at the gate does not seem to think that stepping into Jurassic Park, I mean Erindi, on our motorbikes, is dangerous! I ask about lions, he tells me to just ride through if we see them! Great! I hope the lions got the memo!

As we arrived to the reserve through a back gate, the ride to the camp is a further 27 kms! I am gutted! I was looking forward to get changed and get a beer!

We see warthogs running around. We follow the guard’s instructions and the road signs. I miss a junction at some point and need to do either a large u turn or wing it through deep sand. I take the deep sand doing a sharp turn and make a beginner mistake. I drop the bike as a result. I thought I was getting really good at sand riding! Really! But it has been a long day and I am tired.

I stand next to my bike. Alistair was ahead and did not spot me. I can’t lift my bike! I wonder how long before the lions come to eat me! As chance happens, after a few minutes, a car with South Africans turn up. They stop and two big lads come to the rescue! Ha…. playing the damsel in distress always work! By then, Alistair has joined us and we set off again.

The campsite is luxury campsite. From what I read online i expected to pay 400 rands per person ( about 34 $), but, at reception the price is 1200 for the two of us. I point out to their website pricing (if my memory of their website is correct!) and the girl eventually gives us a discount. We are charged 1000 rand for one night! About 85 USD. Most expensive camping ever!

We are given a key! Our spot include a locked fridge outside with sink and table. Inside is the bathroom. It is big. On the right the toilet cubicle, and separate by a small low wall, the walk-in-shower.

On the left side a sink and built in bench. Between those two side, space big enough to fit two sleeping bags! We decide not to bother with the tent and sleep in the bathroom instead!

After a quick shower we go to the lake. The camp has an electric fence. The lake is beyond the fence. There, we can see 2 huge elephants, hippos and springboks.

Some warthogs are running around as well as lots of birds I cannot identify.

After a good watch and lots of photos we go back for dinner. Our camp has also a small electric Coker provided! We beat a tin of curried vegetables and we add some instant noodles to it. Surprisingly good!

With another can of beer and some biscuits, as the sun set, we go back to the lake. We can see 2 giraffes around but, although the lake is floodlit, it is hard to take photos. We are really happy to have seen giraffes! The 2 elephants are still there but one hippo in the lake is getting angry. Eventually, the elephants leave and 2 hippos get out of the water on the same spot. Zebras faff around while some Orix and springboks are standing around.

No more wildlife comes across so we go to bed. Alistair’s mattress seems to have a small leak. Not great!

Day 20 – Monday 18th June – back to Swakopmund – 320 kms

We decide to get up before sunrise to check the lake. Not much happening there. After a while we go back to our camp for a breakfast of bread and peanut butter with coffee. A very inquisitive bird, with a big beak keeps coming closer and closer, eying my bread. After the baboons in Ai Ais, I am careful with my food! No one will steal it!

We then go back to the lake, a bit before 9am. Few Wildebeests and deers that I cannot identify, as well as springboks, are around. Suddenly, they all get scared and run a way. On the opposite side, Alistair thinks he saw something.

With no one else around in the viewing spots, we carefully and silently walk around toward whatever is “ over there “. Something is coming, slowly, carefully.

And then we see it, hiding under the bushes, coming to drink: a cheetah! Slowly and carefully she comes to drink and leave. She has a collar around her neck, for tracking. She is beautiful!

Later on, I mention this at the reception desk and they tell me that she comes every morning to drink and has some cubs. It was a magical sight! I did not expect to see a cheetah in the wild as they tend to be very shy!

It was a worthwhile visit!

After that, we finish packing up and set off at 10. We are going back to Swakopmund check out if our parts have arrived. And with Alistair’s mattress punctured, camping is out of the question until we fix it.

The ride out of the game park takes us through some farms tracks. The public road cross into gated parcels. One of them is a private hunting lodge. At the entrance of the gate, a sign says “ Danger! Hippos and crocodiles! Do not stop!”. Hum…. I hope they too got the memo about us!

The tracks are sandy and the many dry river crossings are deep sand. By then I mastered it. For short sections at least. Speed. I just accelerate through deep sand and the bike does the rest! The road is merely a farm track and we see no one! It is great and we make good progress. Only stop by the many gates to open and close behind us. The only “ not wild” life we see are cows, goats and sheep.

Eventually, we join the tarmac road to Swakopmund. We stop for fuel and rest. We catch the cross kalahari Highway. We arrive at Swakop at 4 pm and find a backpacker place recommended by Jolein ( as her backpacker place is closed – she has to go to Windhoek so pace is closed this week).

After a quick change, we walk to the Yamaha dealer. Our parts have arrived! That include not only the fork seal for both bikes but also the “cruises control tool”. That should help!


Day 12 – Sesriem – 250kms – Saturday 9th June.

We wake up early. The hotel staff of Helmeringhausen are already in the grounds, tending the gardens and doing stuff.

We have a quick breakfast with bread rolls and the local version of the Laughing Cow cheese triangles.

After that we are back on the road. There are two roads going to our next destination. We decide to take the shortest route. We are told later it is the worse. The road is indeed very bad but we are rewarded by seeing our first close range Orix and zebras. And they are beautiful as they all run along us and across the road.

After a long ride, we make it to Sesriem. The place is only few sandy dusty campsites in the desert. It is the get away to visit Sossusvlei, one of the most visited place in Namibia, with very tall red sand dunes and the flat salt lakes.

We decide to stay in the National Park campsite but there are many camps to chose from as well as many luxury lodges. One charges about 800 to 900 dollars per person! Yeek!

After paying Park fees and camp ground , we set our tent and go to investigate. We cannot go with the bikes to visit the various locations. We ask the ladies at the desk if there is a vehicle that could take us there. The ladies tell us the price but also tell us it might be cheaper and easier to ask around to the owners of 4×4 or the large tourist trucks. There are large groups travelling in massive trucks. As it is still low season, they have space.

I then go round and ask few tourists on big rented 4×4, but they have too much stuff to take 2 passengers.

Next to our tent site, there is a group on a big truck. I walk to the truck and as a guy is getting off the driving cabin, I ask him if he is the driver. He is the guide. That is how we met Zee. He is guiding a group of French for a 3 weeks tour and there is space in the truck to take us to the dunes. So he has no objection but he needs to check with his clients first.

Later on he tells us it is ok and that we have to talk to the driver ( I.e. the driver will want some tip).

The campsite is just sand with no grass, and there is not much to do. We have a tree for shade and nothing else. So we go to the bar to sit and read a bit. No WiFi. To be fair, since we cross into Namibia, even in places where there is WiFi, it never seems to work!

Day 13 – Sesriem – Sunday 10th June – 0kms

The next day we are up at 6 am and ready to go with the truck and the tour guide. The tourists in the trucks are 5 French. A couple in their 50s and 3 women. The road to dune 45 is tarmac, so we wonder why we cannot ride with the bikes.

We climb dune 45. I am out of breath. The previous 2 cold nights and cold rides have ended with a bad cold. I am coughing and feeling pretty bad.

After the climb we return to the truck. The guys are having breakfast. We move away and sit on a tree trunk to get ours: bread roll and some jam as well as the industrial Laughing cow cheese. It has been rattled on the pannier and we need to sort out the aluminium wrapping from the cheese!

Back at the truck, the tourists are finishing their breakfast or scrambled eggs, baked beans, bacon , sausage and more. Alistair is drooling over the display but we don’t want to impose. The left overs are put on a bag, we assume for the bin. Alistair is gutted! In fact, Zee gives that to the driver or park ranger, the one who will take us to the salt lake in a specially large 4×4.

Then we understand why only 4×4 cars can go further into the National Park. It is very deep sand and very harsh tracks. We are told we need to pay for this ride. It is 170 Namibian dollars per person. As Alistair walks to the shack to pay, the driver of the 4×4 calls him back. We will pay him instead ! That’s Africa! We all 7 ( with the 5 French tourists) get in the back while Zee sits next to the driver.

The next stop is near a massive sand dune. Most of the guys decide to climb it. I pass on the pleasure and walk direct to the salt lake.

Later on we meet all there and we get back to the campsite by early afternoon.

We decide to have some toasted sandwiches at the bar. I am very tired and feeling ill. We go for a snooze.

In the evening, Alistair cooks some noodles and we go for an early night.

Zee advises us to stop, on our way to the coast, by a lodge and campsite that is really worth it. We take note.

Day 14 – Rosteck Ritz lodge and campsite – Monday 11th June – 150kms

We decide to stay at the campsite recommended by Zee, the tour guide for the french group, so we do not have far to go. We take our time to pack. The campsite in Sesriem is now full and with no wind, the road is in a perpetual cloud of sand and dust because of all the traffic. Sesriem gets up to 4millions visitor a year apparently. The road is so dusty it is like going through thick fog while breathing sand! Not nice. The road continues to be very busy.

I am trailing behind Alistair. Usually on trails I am much faster than him, but this morning, i am just fighting the bike rather than riding with it. It is hard to explain. On the way to Sesriem, I was flying over sand and corrugations and waiting for Alistair every  10 kms. Today, I don’t seem to be able to do this. The road is tricky and I usually use speed to fly over tricky bits, today, I just don’t feel the bike. On the plus side, my cold seem to have gone.

About 80kms later we stop at Solitaire. The place is a fuel station/ bakery / campsite farm. It is famous for its apple pie. I take tea with a cinnamon roll while Alistair falls for the pie. It is ok but not the best in the world as they claim.

The road is really bad until we get to the lodge. We ride all the way up the reception, 7kms inside the private game reserve with lots of zebras and ostriches running around.

The place is really nice, super expensive for a room, and deserted. The manager welcomes us and explains that the campsite is about 7 or 8 kms away. I guess they don’t want to have the riffraff like us mix and use the luxurious swimming pool and facilities with their rich clients! Although he invites us to use the spool if we fancy. We don’t. We have a beer and decide for some lunch as the place is pleasant.

The menu is suitably expensive. We ask if they have cheaper light lunches and the waiter tells us about the toasted sandwiches. I ask for a toasted steak while Alistair gets a boring toasted stuff with eggs.

We expect something small, considering the expensive menu while our toasted stuff is relatively cheap. Nope. It is big. Although we asked half a portion of French fries to share, we have lots of them!

My steak is real steak, large portion and is tastes amazing. I have lots of it, with an onion sauce that is to die for. When I ask what meat it is, I am told it is Orix. It is superb! Despite all the fries they only charge us for half portion! Really nice people!

Later on, totally full, we ride to the campsite grounds. We are the only ones there so we have the full place to ourselves. To be fair it is small and only has 4 spaces, with each unit having a private area for BBQ with a bit of shade. Upper in the hill, there is a large viewpoint with a kitchen. Well, the kitchen is only a double sink.

The view point has a large section covered with tarpaulin and a small stone wall. It is a perfect place for setting the tent!

Alistair then set fire to the “donkey” so we can have hot water for a shower. At least it sounds to me like the word Donkey! After a hot shower we go trying to see if we can get closer to the zebras, but they have all vanished.

The lodge manager drives up to our camp to check we are ok. On my little walk, a couple of hundreds meters from camp, I see footprints. Cat footprints. Too small to be lion, maybe Cheetah? As the lodge manager is around I show him the picture. He seems very interested about it. He says it is probably a leopard, as cheetahs have non retractable nails, so the footprints should whose them. Without, it is most certainly  a leopard, or maybe a hyena. Although hyenas are pack animals and it was a lone set of footprints. The manager then tracks the footprints for a good mile before driving back to the lodge.

Apparently leopards are not dangerous so we are safe. Hmm!

As the wind raises and we have little shelter, we take the tent to the viewpoint. There is more shelter there and we can get away without putting the roof. Also we are away from the hundreds of massive crickets. And I mean MASSIVE!

As we had a big late lunch at the lodge, ( mmmm Orix steak!) we only get a cup of tea.

The night sky, through the mesh of our inner tent, looks amazing. There is no light pollution, no dust, only the 2 of us, the lodge is a good 8 kms away, and the nearest town is over 200kms! It is so peaceful! A memorable place!

Day 15 – Swakopmund – 230kms – Tuesday 12th June

We have already done 2,500kms since Cape Town! Wow!

We wake up very early as we gone to sleep early. It is winter down here, and the days are short. The sun rises at around 7:45 and sets at around 6, 6:30. It gets dark quickly and we have long nights.

With no food left other than some stale bread, we make a quick coffee and have a small bite of bread.

We set off soon after 8am.

The road is still very bad. Heavy recent rains have done a lot of damage. We still manage to make good progress. Although, once we go over a pass, and ride along a plateau, it gets very windy, it is tiring.

We stop on the way to drink some water and observe a cyclist, with lots of luggage, coming our way.

We wait for him to reach us and we have a chat by the side of the road. He set off from the Netherlands, across the Middle East and flew from there to Cairo. He plans a year on his bicycle. He asks us if we have water and we give him our spare bottle.

Water, when we find it in campsites,  is drinkable tap water. So far we have rarely bought mineral water.

We make good progress on our bikes, despite the horrid dirt road, bad corrugations and slippery sections. We arrive at Walvis Bay around midday. The town is a big centre for mining and oil. There are big trucks everywhere. What we cross is not too nice and we only stop in town to buy fuel. We had no fuel since Solitaire, about 250kms and we are on reserve.

Then we set off on the easy tarmac road to Swakopmund, 30kms further north. We stop midway at a large fuel station with all the facilities we need: shop, deli counter and toilets!

As we had no breakfast or dinner, we get some food.

After that, we get to our destination and find a brand new backpacker place at 40 pounds a night. Namibia is not cheap. Later on we find the local Spar and we are shocked by the price of basic food like butter. 200gr or so costs nearly 4 pounds! We get a cheap half litre of vegetable oil instead for cooking our food. With chicken and noodles and mixed vegs ( vegs are so expensive!) we can do a quick stir fried. We need to load a bit on vitamins as our diet is quite bad on the road, we seem to only eat carbs and meat.

We then explore town and fail to find a laundrette. So, back in the room, I do a big wash with most of my clothes. I also use the shower head to rinse and brush the dirt from the zips in the lower legs of my trousers, and the zips in the tank bag. With so much dust and sand inserted there, the zips are stiff and will break, otherwise.

After the last few days and over 750kms of dirt roads, the bikes have taken a battering. We both have a leaking fork seal. So we need to investigate if we can buy, order, or source replacement here or from Windhoek. So we plan to stay 3 nights to sort out things.

Day 16 and 17 – Swakopmund – weds 13th and Thursday 14th June

We spend these 2 days sorting things out. The backpacker place is great ( Sea view backpackers – on It has a massive kitchen, various sitting areas and large upstairs bar and snooker table, terrace, garden etc… all we need and more! With a young South African couple, we are the only guests. The hotel manager is a bright young lady called Jolien Els. We talk to her and her boyfriend a lot. They suggest great places to stay while we go away for few days in a round trip.

You may be familiar with Jolien, as she is world champion for field archery! Wow! Very interesting and lovely couple. That’s the things with travels, we meet so many amazing people along the way!

We found a Yamaha dealer in town and we manage to order fork seals for both bikes. We will need to come back next week, once the parts arrive from South Africa. I also ask the girl at the Yamaha shop to order a “cruise control” tool. it is a very simple piece of plastic that you fit at the throttle and I can keep my hand flat to accelerate rather than constantly gripping the throttle. My hand is painful. I used to have one once.

So that’s it. We are off tomorrow, and we will be into the wilderness for 5 or 6 days. We have supplies ( food!) and gps coordinates of some interesting campsites! It should be interesting!